How To Repair Power Window Motor

Twosrus sells replacement motor gears for power windows, which is a very mutual failure on the aging MR2s. However, the regulator gear could be the one causing your bug. This gear is irreplaceable and you must purchase a new regulator (either from Toyota, junkyard or another MR2 owner). Below is a slap-up writeup from Ian which details replacing the regulator. But beginning, 86mister2 explains how to tell which gear is broken before tearing into your door panels.

[86mister2]

Hither'due south how you lot can tell which gear is broken without dissasembly of your doors:

1) If the window pauses for a 2nd simply continues on its own to move up or down, information technology is a bad motor gear. What happens is when the motor gear moves to it'south bad spot, it obviously won't plough the regulator gear untill the motor gear spins back to where it yet has teeth. Then it will re-engage the regulator gear untill it comes to the bad spot again. This will cause the window to stop for a 2d or 2 each fourth dimension information technology passes the bad spot, but will proceed again on it's ain.

2) If the window pauses and doesn't resume by itself, but just makes a horrible grinding or repetitive clicking noise and yous have to give it a little push or pull to resume operation, yous accept a bad regulator gear. What happens is the motor will spin the regulator untill information technology hitting's the regulator gear'south bad spot. Since at that place are no more usable teeth on that spot of the regulator gear, the motor gear will merely go along spinning against it causing the grinding noise and the window stops moving. When this happens, you need to give the window a little help and then that the disrepair regulator gear turns enough to re-appoint with the motor gear with its remaining teeth. This scenario IS Non REPAIRABLE with twosrus gears.

3) Some other problem that tin happen which volition lock the window in place would either be a power failure, or the window cable gets wrapped around a piece of metallic. There is ordinarily a little plasitc slice on these metal tabs that the cable rests against and then every bit not to get intertwined with annihilation. Over fourth dimension, the plastic tabs tin popular off or break. If this happens, the cable may slip around the metallic tab that once held the plastic and jam the window. Repeated attempts to raise or lower the window in this scenario may damage your cable, causing information technology to start to fray or snap. If you believe this could be your trouble, I would recommend removal of the door console and checking information technology out to make sure the cable isn't stuck on anything.

[Ian]

Earlier starting the job, you should consider the possibility that not only the motor drive gear teeth are broken, simply the regulator gear may exist broken, too. You may need the consummate regulator. Information technology happened to me. I found very useful a screw-commuter with replacement $.25, including hex and star drives, particularly if information technology's a 'T-bar' type. A square bulldoze mm. socket set with a iii inch extension is also nice. The BGB is very helpful, only is unclear on a few fundamentals.

• Get-go, yous need to be able to motility the glass to different positions while yous are removing components. (O.K. I know that, at this betoken, it'south broken, but…). You lot will need to accept the window switch carve up from the door trim. It's merely held with two screws and is easy to remove and replace in the door trim console. The relay is also re-sited afterward removal of the door trim. This is because the window needs to be all the way down to remove the outside atmospheric condition-strip from the door and mid-way to dissever the window glass from the regulator.
• Secondly, and most chiefly, the plastic 6mm hex socket in the large toothed cycle of the regulator will not move the wheel (and the regulator) when the electrical motor is attached.
• The green manual (BGB) is non really clear about window aligning, particularly with the 4mm hex drive in the regulator bolts.

The immobility of the regulator gears is quite reasonable, when you lot think about it. The glass must remain in whatever position, where information technology is stopped. The importance of this bespeak is that yous must position the regulator in mid-position with the 6mm hex drive earlier attaching the electric motor so that you lot can commodities the glass to the regulator through the holes in the door. You do this positioning equally the motor is attached again to the regulator, after replacing the broken gear wheels and before the regulator is replaced in the door.

If you attempt to motility the power window mechanism without the glass, so you will intermission something. I recommend disconnecting the battery, so that every time you supply power to the window regulator, it is intentional. When you lot remove the window relay and mirror power cable, the connectors are fairly obvious.

1) Generally, the green transmission (BGB) is clear on the window removal process. They advise yous to remove the door-trim, but don't mention the tendency for those little plastic discs that encompass the three screws to fly everywhere in car or garage. I suggest using some electrical tape over each as you lever information technology out with your taped-over screwdriver. They as well don't mention the demand to remove a pocket-sized screw from the plastic inside handle trim to go the door liner off. The water-proofing plastic liner to the door can gently exist pulled off its tarry glue, after removing the ability-window relay.

2) The safe mouldings at each stop of the door tin can be discrete by removing their ii screws and the two screws that fix the outer weatherstrip are fairly obvious. If, like me, you drop any of them in the door, they are small enough to push to the door bleed hole and fall through it.

3) The rear-view mirror and its triangular lower frame will need to be removed from the door. The frame is fixed with ii bolts, outside, and one nut, inside. Note the room for movement, assuasive this frame to be adjusted to the position of the window-glass and prevent those annoying whistles at speed.

four) The manual says to remove the inside door handle and its links to the lock, but later implies that the regulator can be replaced with the door handle machinery in-identify. I managed to remove the regulator and supplant information technology without removing the within door handle, but removing it volition requite you a little more room, especially if you lot experience the temptation to be forceful. In that location accept been complaints that the regulator channels and metallic parts are weak and that bending any of these causes permanent damage.

5) At this point I recommend the apply of white pigment (I used typing correction fluid, White-Out) to mark the present position of all regulator adjustment bolts and window stoppers and trim supports.

6) There are 2 glass stoppers to decide the final height of the closed window-glass; one is ii inches from the rear view mirror and the other is above the door lock. Both are on the within and are marked past a 1.five inch oval defect in the metal. Y'all tin check the location by looking for two plastic hooks in the window glass that fit into the window stops.

7) There are two door trim supports with felt that concord the window-glass against the outside weatherstrip. They are bolted to the within console of the metal and are more central in position at the acme of the door than the door stoppers. The green transmission (BGB) does not make a clear stardom between stoppers and door trim supports. The difference becomes important at the window adjustment phase after re-installation. There are 4 plastic clips in the door; 2 concord cables in the regulator and 2 position the power-cable to the mirror.

viii) Once you lot have marked the position and removed the window stops and felt supports, y'all can remove the commodities and 2 nuts that concur the window glass to the regulator. It is adequately easy to remove. Note the plastic-tipped metal claw that goes in the channel of the regulator frame nearest the door hinges. You will need to relocate that hook when you reassemble the window. Removing the 4 large basics that hold the regulator channel arms and the smaller three bolts that hold the gear cycle associates to the door will permit removal of the regulator. Check that you have unplugged the power connector, commencement. The regulator does come up out, but it's a flake difficult although it should come out without the use of any strength. The door space is non equal throughout and, by looking, you can choose the widest space for each particular component as it presents on its way out. Here, midwives and obstetricians may accept a particular advantage.

nine) The motor can exist disconnected by removing the three screws that hold it to the regulator gear holder. The screws accept star-shaped sockets and you must take the right size, because these are hard to disengage and have to exist tight. If the motor gear wheel is the merely component with missing teeth then you are lucky. Otherwise you will accept to fit a new regulator. Both gear-wheels are plastic. The Toyota part comes with all gear wheels and the smaller is a better fit to the vii toothed metal motor drive than is the MR2 club part that is available separately. Both will exist a tight fit and may need to be lightly tapped in with a plastic faced hammer.

10) Assembly of the window mechanism is the reverse of its dismantling, except for the nuts that go to the upper studs of the regulator; these, like the bolts for stoppers and felt supports, are only finger-tight. You must remember to adapt the acme of the window-glass mounts so that you volition come across them through the holes in the door. The spring machinery is designed to assistance take the weight of the door and if y'all screw on the electric motor without pre-positioning, the window will exist at the pinnacle and its holding bolts, inaccessible.

11) Fold the regulator without twisting or overly forcing distortions in the cables. The cable to the motor bulldoze lies on the inside of the motorcar, relative to the balance of the regulator. Annotation that it is attached, by a plastic clip, to the inside of the door. All cables will perform desperately when distorted, enquire whatsoever motorcyclist. You volition need to be patient as the regulator goes dorsum into the door, information technology takes lots of tries.

Adjustment of the Window

1. Locate the studs of the regulator in their respective holes in the door and tighten the nuts to finger-tight at the top and fully at the bottom. Use your earlier paint marks to site things in their original positions.
2. Concord the motor associates so that the hex drive in the center of the gear is visible through the round hole, presumably for the handle in non- power-windows. The three basics that hold it can be seated and tightened fully.
3. Supersede the front lower frame that holds the mirror, but do not tighten the nut and bolts. It will be moved so that at that place is no air-leak betwixt it and the final position of the window glass.
4. Put back the door stops in their original position and replace the external weatherstrip and the prophylactic chugalug moulding, being careful not to drib any of the six small screws into the door.
5. Reconnect the power and raise the drinking glass to its mid-position. Hither, in theory, the window trim at the superlative of the door and the trim supports volition operate at the mid-point of the curve of the window-glass.
6. Adjust the felt covered door trim supports so that the glass is gripped betwixt the elastic force per unit area of the weatherstrip and the felt door-trim supports (2). At that place must be a small-scale gap between the felt underneath the rubber edge on the weatherstrip and the glass. The purpose is to use the elasticity of the weatherstrip prophylactic and not to grip the glass between the felts on both side of it. That fashion lies motor burn-out.
7. The door trim supports can then be fully tightened. They, and the exterior felt in the weatherstrip, will act as the fulcrum for the lever that is the window glass in its final position confronting the rubber around the door mode.
8. Raise the window drinking glass to the meridian to 'shut' the window, but do not close the door. Yous will need to check the height of the door relative to the roof side weatherstrip and roof drip moulding. The greenish manual specifies a 1 to 4 mm gap between peak of drinking glass and roof drip moulding. They say to remove the weatherstrip to cheque this, but y'all can get a working approximation by comparing with the other side, provided that no-1 has changed it from the mill ready-up.
9. Notation the distance of adjustment needed and lower the window. Adjust the height of the door window stoppers to bring the elevation position of the glass to within the specified distance from the roof drip moulding. Several tries may be needed. Finally tighten the bolts on the door window stoppers.
10. The position of the window drinking glass can too be adapted past changing its position in the moveable mounts at the bottom of the regulator.
    1. The two nuts nearly the door lock allow the drinking glass to be moved forward. The green manual specifies a distance of 7.five to 11mm from the drinking glass of the closed window to the center pillar moulding, behind the door.
    2. The nut nearer the door hinge permits the window to tilt equally it rises. The green transmission specifies that, when closing, the front of the window stops first and the rear rises a further v-10mm. I had no trouble, merely I wonder if in that location might be a need to adjust the door window-stopper positions twice if the window doesn't move equally expected.
11. If yous accept a new regulator or the window position has been inverse, yous will probably need to adjust the prominence of the studs that concord the upper parts of the regulator channels. The alignment of the concluding position of the regulator with the door will have been done with the usual Toyota efficiency at the factory, but there is sufficient variation door-hanging to allow the possibility that the raised window may not exactly match the line of the roof moulding.
    
    You may accept noted that the upper regulator studs take a flange on them which holds the glass against the upper nut. By screwing or unscrewing these studs, the regulator channels are tilted and the window glass can be made to tilt at the tiptop of its travel. To practise this you will demand a 4mm hex drive. The window glass acts a lever with the regulator fixing at one end and the roof moulding at the other. The final position of the top of the glass tin can be fabricated to tilt in towards the safety past unscrewing, anti-clockwise, the bolts to move the lower end of the window outwards. Conversely to go more clearance at the meridian of the glass, when the door is closed, the studs need to be turned clockwise. With each set of two studs at the acme of the regulator, you must make the aforementioned degree of rotation. Likewise move each pair of studs to the same caste. This implies that the tilt of the window in the door is right. If the final tilt is wrong with more clearance at front end or back, and so conform one fix of 2 studs. If you do not move the two studs together, and then, theoretically, you will stress and intermission the glass. More probably, you volition merely incrase the friction in the channels of the regulator. A "T-bar" spiral-driver is specially useful to measure the caste of rotation.
12. When you think you've got information technology right, tighten the appropriate basics and bolts to fix their position.
13. Before y'all finish, yous'll need to make a check of window movement with the door closed, particularly to check if the window tends to roll-up the soft prophylactic sealing weatherstrip.
14. Reposition the front end lower frame that holds the mirror, so that there is no air-leak betwixt information technology and the final position of the window drinking glass. Tighten the nut and bolts.

Once the window is washed, the replacement of mirror, the installation of plastic seal, door trim and replacement of relay and switches is a straightforward reverse of dismantling.

Hopefully, you will accept working window with relatively silent dry motoring.

This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is merely to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not exist held responsible for any injury or amercement that may occur as the issue of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photograph submissions are property of the contributing writer.

How To Repair Power Window Motor,

Source: https://midshiprunabout.org/mk1/power-window-repair/

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